Start with assorted varieties and you can fearlessly grow many, many squash in a surprisingly small space as they have a reputation for burying gardeners with their prolific output. By planting a buttery Yellow Crookneck, a prolific Yellow Straightneck, and a Black Beauty zucchini in peak season in the same 6-foot-wide bed, you could be picking a manageable 3 to 4 squash a day in peak season.
There is no hurry to harvest nutrient-rich winter squash like Acorn and Butternut, which ripen to full maturity before they are picked. Butternut is a vining plant that needs space to run, but because it is resistant to squash vine borers (an all-too-common pest) and because it stores at normal room temperatures for months, many gardeners find ways to make room for Butternut.
Growing squash from seed can be very fun and rewarding. As with any plant grown from seed, certain precautions need to be taken when growing squash from seed. Otherwise, they are very easy to grow and are great for hot climates.
Squash is among the most commonly grown plant in the vegetable garden. This crop is fairly easy to grow and establishes itself quite well in most regions of the United States.
There are many varieties of squash, most of which are vine plants; there are a number of bush types as well, however. Before you grow squash, be sure you know which type you have and plan your garden accordingly. There are two types of squash varieties: summer and winter.
Summer varieties of squash are large and bushy. These types of plants do not spread as the vine types do. There are several types of summer squash which come in a variety of shapes and colors. The most common types include straight-neck, crooked-neck, scallop, and zucchini. Most winter varieties of squash are vine plants and will spread throughout the garden.
Winter squash is often categorized according to fruit size and there are a number of sizes, shapes, and colors available. Winter varieties include acorn, butternut, spaghetti, and hubbard squash.
As with other vine-growing crops, squash prefers heat, but it is often somewhat hardier than melons or cucumbers. Squash plants require full sun, fertile soil, and sufficient moisture. The use of well composted material mixed into the soil is recommended.
Summer and winter squash grow best in fertile, well-drained soil containing high amounts of organic matter in areas of full sun. Organic matter can be added by incorporating compost into the soil as well as decomposed manure.
Squash plants have a better success rate when the seeds are planted directly in the ground. When growing squash plants from seed you must take all precautions to minimize root disturbance. Root disturbance is the most common reason for failed squash plants.
Squash can be sown directly into the garden or started indoors. Summer and winter squash are commonly planted in hills about 1 inch deep. Sow seeds only after any danger of frost has ended and the soil has warmed. Usually, only 4 to 5 seeds per hill is plenty, thinning down to 2 or 3 plants per hill once the seedlings have developed their true leaves.
Hills and rows of summer squash should be approximately 3 to 4 feet apart while winter squash should be spaced approximately 4 to 5 feet apart with 5 to 7 feet between rows and with the hills spaced about 3 feet apart.
Squash can be started indoors 3 to 4 weeks prior to the planting date. Start seeds in peat pots but be sure the squash seedlings do not suffer root disturbances during transplanting. You can plant 3 to 4 seeds per pot and thin to 2 plants later. Be sure to harden the plants off prior to planting in the garden to lessen the shock of transplanting and wait until all danger of frost has passed. It helps to mulch squash plants generously; mulching maintains moisture and reduces weeds.
A common problem with growing squash is the environmental factors. Squash must be kept in warm temperatures at all times. Cool nights can injure or kill squash plants. If early sowing is required, sow indoors to avoid late frosts. Over watering and soggy soil will also causes root rot.
When sowing seeds in the garden, it is best to use the ‘hill’ method. When sowing the seeds into the hill, sow 2-4 seeds per hill. This will insure at least one healthy plant per hill. Keep the soil moist at all times but do not allow the soil to get soggy.
Squash seeds should sprout in 7-10 days. Once seeds have sprouted continue to water as needed to keep soil moist. Once the seeds are 2 weeks old, fertilize with an all purpose fertilizer at ¼ recommended strength.
Once the squash plants are large enough to determine their health, reduce the number of plants per hill to 1-2 plants each. Simply plucking out the weakest plants will suffice but it is suggested that the weak plants be cut down to the dirt to prevent disturbing the roots of the healthy plants that will remain.
Continue to water and fertilize on a regular bases. Use a fungicide and insecticide often, following the package instructions. Squash is susceptible to blight as well as other foliage fungi that can cause serious problems. Using the fungicide on regular bases will help prevent a rapid spread.
Squash need plenty of sun and good drainage, and they love wrapping their roots around bits of decomposing leaves or other compost. Prepare the ground for squash by mixing in a 3-inch layer of compost along with a timed-release or organic fertilizer at the rate recommended on the label. Set 3 transplants in hills spaced at least 30 inches apart. A light mulch is sufficient because squash leaves are so broad and dense that mature plants minimize weeds and provide cooling shade. When setting out squash seedlings in sunny weather, you may cover them with an upside-down flowerpot or other shade cover for a couple of days after transplanting to help prevent wilting.
Squash bears both male and female flowers. The female flowers are easy to identify by looking for a tiny squash below the blossoms. Male flowers are borne atop a bare stem. To help female flowers develop into squash, bees and other small insects pay numerous visits, leaving behind trails of pollen brought from male blossoms. Male flowers often drop to the ground at the end of their life; don’t be alarmed, as this is normal.
Troubleshooting
If at first your plants produce all male blooms, that is normal. You'll see blooms drop and think that something is wrong. Be patient. It may take a week or two before the female blooms begin appearing.
Most varieties of squash are susceptible to a variety of bacteria and fungal diseases. Powdery mildew and bacterial wilt are the most common. Disease problems are most common in hot and humid weather. These diseases can be treated with organic fungicides. A variety of other pests also can cause problems, depending on your particular area.
Squash bugs and squash vine borers can be serious pests. These insects can cause entire leaves to wilt, turn brown, and die. Squash is also susceptible to cucumber beetles which feed on the leaves of the plants and spread disease from one plant to another. Most adult insects can be easily removed by hand, or you may apply an appropriate insecticide to the base of the plants. With proper garden planning, growing requirements, and maintenance, many of these problems can be avoided. After the final harvest, remove and destroy all plant debris to prevent insect or disease infestations.
Squash bugs, squash vine borers, and cucumber beetles often injure squash, with damage most severe late in the season, when plants are failing anyway. In areas where pest pressure starts early in the season, grow plants beneath floating row covers, or use covers made of wedding net placed over hoops. Remove the covers to admit pollinating insects when the plants start to bloom.
Check daily when harvesting as these crops grow quickly, especially in hot weather. You should harvest squash frequently to encourage more production and pick the fruits while still small. Squash that is overly ripe becomes hard, seedy, and loses its flavor. The summer varieties should be gathered before the seeds have fully ripened and while the rinds are still soft. The winter varieties should not be picked until well matured.
If you've heard that squash blossoms are edible (they are!) and you want to try them, go ahead and pick the first blossoms that appear. Remove the inner parts, and use the petals to add color to appetizers and salads. Harvesting the first flowers won't hurt the plants' production, because the early flowers are males, which bear pollen but not fruit.
You may harvest yellow squash, zucchini, and other types of summer squash as baby squash, or you can cut them larger, up to 6 to 8 inches long. Use a sharp knife to gather your bounty at least every other day while the plants are producing. Should you miss a picking or two, remove the overripe squash as soon as possible to reduce demands on the plants for moisture and nutrients. If you find yourself with a bumper crop, squash pickles are easy to make, or you can grill marinated slices before storing them in your freezer. Summer squash also work well when dried.
When the rinds of winter squash are tough enough to resist being punctured with a fingernail, cut them with a short stub of vine attached. Be patient, because only fully ripened squash will keep for months in storage. Wipe fruits clean with a damp cloth, and store them in a basement or other cool place. Until you are ready to cook pretty acorns or butternuts, it's fine to include them in fall table decorations.
Summer squash can be stored cool, moist areas up to two weeks. They may also be canned or frozen. Summer squash is commonly used in salads, stir-fried, steamed, or cooked in various dishes.
Winter squash can be stored in a cool, dry location for 1 to 6 months. Winter squash is commonly used in baked, steamed, or boiled dishes.
Tips:
If sowing seeds in containers or cell packs, it is suggested that the seeds be sown directly into peat pots. Since squash can not tolerate root disturbance, the peat pots are the safest method. When transplanting the peat pots into the garden, simply cut out the bottom of the peat pot and plant whole.
Maintain healthy plants by keeping the garden area weeded out, using a insecticide on a regular base and doing routine sprays for fungi.
|
